PORTO DE SANTA MARIA

Cascais; tel.: 21 487 0240; fax: 21 458 0949 Possibly the best seafood served in a large restaurant on a beach facing the sea.

PAP’ACORDA

Rua da Atalaia, 57-59; tel.: 21 346 4811; fax: 21 342 9705 To reach Pap'acorda you have to penetrate narrow streets of the fashionable Bairo Alto quarter, one of the seven hills of Lisbon. Under the direction of Jose Miranda and Fernando Fernandes it is a well run restaurant which I enjoy as it is so different. One of the reasons for coming here is to eat acorda — an extraordinary mixture of bread, egg, oil, garlic and coriander, stuffed into lobster or prawns. You can also enjoy good shellfish. A typical dessert is chocolate mousse. The wines are of course Portuguese. Friendly service. Do book ahead.

PABE

Rua Duque de Palmela, 27; tel.: 21 353 7484; fax: 21 353 6439 As the name implies this is a popular English pub but it is also a good restaurant with shellfish specialities.

O FAZ FIGURA

Rua do Paraiso, 15-B; tel.: 21 886 8981; fax: 21 886 8981 Sitting on the terrace of this lovely restaurant one has a fine view of the River Tagus and the harbour area below. Inside there are two air-conditioned dining rooms with leather Chesterfield banquettes which gives this restaurant a club-like atmosphere. The food is typically Portuguese with dishes such as tiny grilled squid, salad of gambas and Portuguese steak cooked in a casserole with smoked ham. The wines are Portuguese.

GAMBRINUS

Rua das portas de santo Antao, 25; tel.: 21 342 1466; fax: 21 346 5032 If it is fish and shellfish you are thinking of Gambrinus is your place. Traditional Portuguese food is served such as creme de mariscos which is shellfish soup or you can try seabass in a clam sauce. The desserts are interesting but classical, such as chocolate souffle or crepe suzette. This is a bustling place, always busy, right in the centre of town. If you are in a hurry you can eat and drink at the bar counter.

CONVENTUAL

Praca das Flores, 45; tel.: 21 390 9196; fax: 21 390 9196 A former bakery in the old quarter featuring traditional Portuguese dishes. Good value menus.

CLARA

Campo dos Martires de Patria, 49; tel.: 21 885 3053; fax: 21 885 2082 A former private house with a floodlit garden converted into an elegant restaurant, with excellent Portuguese specialities such as smoked swordfish.

CASA DA COMIDA

Travessa das Amoreiras, 1; tel.: 21 388 5376; fax: 21 387 5132 Many consider this the best restaurant in Lisbon and I tend to agree. It is a peaceful and attractive place where you sit comfortably on Regency furniture, looking out over the flower filled courtyard with a tiled fountain. When I visit Lisbon I tend to make this my first port of call. At the start of the meal you may enjoy an amuse bouche such as seafood fritters or salmon ravioli. Fish is a speciality and I can recommend, as a starter, hot prawns in garlic and then for a main course perhaps grilled sole or turbot in a green pepper sauce. There is an excellent wine list with many Portuguese specialities. The port wine is good and reasonably priced. Reservations recommended.