CLUB GASCON

57 West Smithfield EC1; tel.: 020 7796 0600; fax: 020 7796 0601 Foie gras in many shapes and forms is the speciality of this fairly simple and very French restaurant near London's business district. The proprietors Vincent Labeyrie and Pascal Aussignec (head chef) and most of the staff are French. As the name Gascon implies the menu is influenced by south-west France and there are also many wines from that area. When my wife and I lunched there recently we enjoyed the opportunity to order a number of small tasting-size dishes. We chose half a dozen and had them served two at a time. You can also order a glass of different wine to go with each course.

CHEZNICO

Grosvenor House, 90 Park Lane W1; tel.: 020 7409 1290; fax: 020 7355 4877 Nico Ladenis has gone low-key, both in name and prices. In 1999 he was still a rare three star chef in the Michelin guide but now he has opted not to be included. It is a very fine restaurant but with more simplified cooking and, bravo, lower prices. Nico can be temperamental but he's a great chef and I urge my readers to venture forth and sample his cuisine. Discuss your selection of dishes with Dinah-Jane Ladenis.

THE CAPITAL

22-24 Basil Street SW3; tel.: 020 7589 5171; fax: 020 7225 0011 Eric de Chavot is one of the finest French chefs now working in London. In the Capital he has really found success with a menu of classic French dishes. On a recent visit I ordered the five-course tasting menu and started with nicely roasted scallops followed by boudin of foie gras — I could also have started with tuna carpaccio or pan-fried salmon with choucroute. Among main courses there is roast pigeon with lentils or gigot of rabbit with a black olive farce. Our dessert was thinly sliced strawberries on a biscuit pastry. The wine list is excellent but rather expensive with mainly French wines. The Capital hotel is one of the best small hotels in London, conveniently placed next door to Harrods. The restaurant with its understated elegance has been designed by David Linley, the son of Princess Margaret. The tables are well spaced, giving you privacy, and the service is very professional.

THE CADOGAN

75 Sloane Street SW1; tel.: 020 7235 7141; fax: 020 7245 0994 The Cadogan is well placed halfway down Sloane Street on the corner of Pont Street. It is an excellent hotel with its attractive Victorian and early Edwardian decor. It is famous for having had Oscar Wilde as a customer — indeed he was arrested in room 118. The restaurant is quiet and comfortable with a high standard of cooking by chef Graham Thompson. He is very talented and definitely deserves a star. He is one of my favourite chefs and I often go to the kitchen and get Graham's advice before ordering. Among his dishes are baked sea bass with bangoule artichoke and roast fillets of pigeon with celenac puree and girolles.

AUBERGINE

11 Park Walk SW10; tel.: 020 7352 3449; fax: 020 7351 1770 In residential Chelsea the Aubergine is perhaps the best and well worth its star. Chef William Drabble presents an excellent French inspired menu in the comfortable dining room. I prefer the tables as far from the entrance as possible. During the winter season Aubergine offers a spectacular eight course truffle menu which is very interesting and unusual but quite expensive. Some dishes, which I have enjoyed, are scallops with a pea puree and red mullet with a tomato confit. The wine list is mainly French with good Bordeaux and Burgundy.

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