Best World Restaurants Guide
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LA TOUR D’ARGENT |
15-17 quai de la Tournelle, 75005; tel.: 01 43 54 2331;
fax: 01 44 07 1204
You are entering one of the most attractive dining rooms in Paris with a breathtaking view of the Seine and of Notre Dame. You will probably already have visited the wine museum and historic table settings on the ground floor. Since its opening in 1582 (!) this has been a favourite eating place for Parisians — and with good justification. And what about the food and wine? Relax. Chef Bernard Guilhaudin prepares with great skill the famous numbered duck a l'orange and many other specialities such as quenelles de brochet On a recent visit I enjoyed duck aux cerise. The wine cellar of the Tour d Argent has — wait for it — 500,000 bottles, the largest of any restaurant in the world.
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LA LUNA |
69 rue Rocher, 75008; tel.: 01 42 93 7761; fax: 01 40 08 0244
There are more good restaurants in Paris than anywhere else in the world, so how do you choose among the less well known? This is where the Florman guide comes to your assistance, with, for example, La Luna, a small hidden gem, only a short distance north of the centre. Owner Mme Katherine Delaunay offers a friendly reception. Chef Christian Rocher specialises in products from the sea; such as cold anchovy from Colliourle, fresh gambas in olive oil, dorade royal with ginger. La Luna is quite small so do phone ahead. It is open on Saturday for lunch, which is not so common in Paris.
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LUCAS CARTON |
9 place de la Madeleine, 75008; tel.: 01 42 65 2290;
fax: 01 42 65 0623
This is one of the most historic restaurants in Paris. In the nineteenth century it was known as Lucas but in 1924 Frances Carton became the owner and thus was born Lucas Carton. In 1985 the famous chef Alain Senderens took over the stoves and from then on it was and still has three star cooking. The interior, very attractive, is both belle epoque and art nouveau, with blond wood panelling and many mirrors. There are superb dishes such as Homard de Bretagne a la vanille, canard apicius roti au miel, or perhaps steamed foie gras with cabbage. Another way to dine here is to take the five-course menu accompanied by a glass of wine for each course, especially selected by the sommelier.
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LASSERRE |
17 avenue F.D.Roosevelt, 75008; tel.: 01 43 59 0213;
fax: 01 45 63 7223
New chef Michel Roth is restoring this gastronomic temple to its former glory — and they still have the amazing roof that opens to clear the air and so allow the diners to watch the sky. Top class food in a luxury setting.
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JULES VERNE |
2nd etage Tour Eiffel, 75007; tel.: 01 45 55 6144; fax: 01 47 05 2941
Must be the best view in Paris — take the private lift to the second floor of the Eiffel Tower. Gourmet food in the sky. Essential to book well in advance.
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JAMIN |
32 rue Longchamps, 75116; tel.: 01 45 53 0007; fax: 01 45 53 0015
This is the place where the great Joel Robuchon established his world reputation. Now that the master has gone his disciple Benoit Guichaud offers a modern classic cuisine of high quality. This is a calm restaurant for serious food lovers. Among dishes that we have eaten here are creme de laitue a la muscat, fricassee of langoustine in ravioli and grilled seabass with lobster butter. A dessert worth trying is poelee fraises a la fleur d'oranges and creme glacee. At lunch time there is a reasonably priced menu at around FF300 that I recommend.
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HIRAMATSU |
52, rue de Longchamp; tel.: 01 56 81 0880;
fax: 01 56 81 0881
The Paris branch of «Restaurant Hiramatsu» opened in October 2001, on the Ile Saint-Louis, and, after only four months in business, became the first restaurant operated by a Japanese owner-chef to receive a star in the Michelin Guide Rouge. The restaurant has moved to new premises in the 16th Arrondissement, an area teeming with famous restaurants, where it continues to offer the creative and refined cuisine of chef Hiroyuki Hiramatsu, together with the unchanging excellence of the Hiramatsu style of service, evolved at the original restaurant in Nishi-Azabu, Tokyo.
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GUY SAVOY |
18 rue Troyon, 75017; tel.: 01 43 80 4061; fax: 01 46 22 4309
The contemporary paintings are still there but last year the restaurant was completely redecorated transforming it into several smaller rooms with high quality leather and woodwork. Ever since he opened in the 1980's bearded Guy Savoy has been among the best known and most respected Paris chefs. As always in Paris you have to book well ahead for dinner in order to sample. Here are some examples I urge you to try, all of which I have enjoyed: duck foie gras with rock salt and duck jelly followed by saddle of veal lightly roasted with potato puree and truffles and for dessert vanilla millefeuille with fruit coulis.
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GRAND VEFOUR |
17 rue Beaujolais, 75001; tel.: 01 42 96 5627; fax: 01 42 86 8071
The opulence of the lavish 18th century interior of Grand Vefour is hard to beat and many a famous name has admired its glorious decor: Napoleon Bonaparte, Jean Cocteau and Victor Hugo among others. Each table bears the name of a famous personality who has eaten there. It is dining at its most luxurious and the elegant setting with the chandeliers and mirrors has not changed much in the last two centuries since its opening in 1784. Chef Guy Martin, who comes from the Savoy region, has gone from strength to strength and last year joined a small group of three star holders in Paris. What is on his current menu? You could start with homard de Bretagne a oseille avec son jus followed by filet de Saint- Pierre meuniere with jus de coquillages.
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FAUGERON |
52 rue Longchamp, 75116; tel.: 01 47 04 2453; fax: 01 47 55 6290
For many years Faugeron has been one of the finest two star restaurants in Paris and I have no hesitation in awarding Henri Faugeron an extra half-star. Just wait until you've tried his starter speciality — a soft-boiled egg with pureed truffles and brioche «soldiers» and you may well think he is ready for his third star. Madame Gerlinde Faugeron is one of the finest hostesses in Paris and always welcomes you with a smile. The sommelier, Mr Jambon, will help you select the right wine.
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COPENHAGUE |
142 avenue Champs Elysees, 75008; tel.: 01 44 13 8626;
fax: 01 42 25 8310
Would you like a Danish meal in the centre of Paris? Here it is waiting for you right on the Champs-Elysees in a complex of three restaurants from inexpensive to deluxe. It is owned by a Swedish friend of mine, Lennart Engstrom who carefully preserves Danish culinary traditions. The Copenhague on the first floor provides the finest Danish food outside Denmark. The Flora Danica on the ground floor offers terrace dining in the summer and there is also a simpler restaurant and a take-away In Copenhague the finest Scandinavian produce is served, especially from the sea, such as salmon in many variations as well as herring. Prawns and crayfish are specialities. To accompany these dishes try a glass of Danish aquavit and of course Danish beer.
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CARRE DES FEUILLANTS |
14 rue Castiglione 75001; tel.: 01 42 86 8282; fax: 01 42 86 0771
Alain Dutournier is a leading representative of cooking from Gascony in Paris. He gets a strong two star rating for his fine dishes from his home province, including of course foie gras. The restaurant is set in an arcade off the Rue de Rivoli. It is spacious and attractive with a glass covered courtyard. Enjoy foie gras with truffles followed by roasted langoustines and then grilled ducor order oysters followed by scallops.
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BUDDHA BAR |
8 rue Boissy d'Anglas, 8e tel.: 01 53 05 9000
The namesake of Buddha Bar, a towering, gold-painted Buddha, contemplates enough Dragon Empress screens and colorful chinoiserie for five MGM movies. A spacious mezzanine bar overlooks the dining room, where cuisines. Although past its prime as a Parisian hot spot, it manages to fill up nightly with an eclectic bunch. Metro: Concorde.
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LE BRISTOL |
112 rue du Fbg Saint-Honore, 75008; tel.: 01 53 43 4340;
fax: 01 53 43 4301
Although many Paris hotels have very good dining rooms I am limiting my choice to just a couple. With an excellent location on the shopping street of Faubourg de St Honore and only a stone's throw from the Presidential palace the Bristol has top class accommodation. The summer restaurant overlooks the garden so that you can enjoy chef Eric Frechon's cooking in a relaxed atmosphere. On a recent visit with friends Eric gave us croustillons de langoustine, sea bass with shellfish and an excellent riz de veau (sweetbread). An excellent dessert to try is souffle a la noisette. Another time I had homard rafraichi d'un gaspacho a l'huile d'olive, followed by pigeon vendeen, and ended with biscuit micuit au chocolat grand cru with creme glacee. Frechon is a brilliant chef and I have decided to award him 3 stars.
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L'ASTRANCE |
4 rue Beethoven, 16e; 16th Arrondissement
(Trocadero/Bois De Boulogne); tel.: 01 40 50 8440
It's small, it's charming, and its creative flair derives from the partnership of two former employees (some say «disciples») of megachef Alain Passard, scion of L'Arpege, an ultraglam restaurant in the 7th Arrondissement. The perfectly mannered Christophe Rohat, supervising the dining room, is the more visible of the two, but Pascal Barbot, the chef creating the food that emerges from the kitchens, has become a true culinary force. Expect a crisply contemporary dining room. The menu, from which flavors practically jump off the plates, might include an unusual form of «ravioli», wherein thin slices of avocado encase a filling of seasoned crabmeat, all of it accompanied by salted almonds and a splash of almond oil.
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ARPEGE |
84 rue Varenne, 75007; tel.: 01 47 05 0906;
fax: 01 44 18 9839
This is the smallest of the eight three star restaurants in Paris and until now has always been booked far ahead. It will be interesting to see if this will continue as chef/patron Alain Passard has recently announced to the world that he and his team are going vegetarian. Why not find out for yourself what a top chef can achieve giving himself such limitations. Centrally placed almost opposite the Rodin museum, you descend narrow stairs to choose your menu, which might include medallions of homard and navets with honey and sherry vinegar.
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APICIUS |
122 avenue Villiers 75017; tel.: 01 43 80 196 6122; fax: 01 44 40 0957
It is well worth going slightly out of the centre of Paris to experience the fine cooking of Jean Pierre Vigato, a self-taught chef. In a contemporary interior with abstract art on the walls he serves both classic and inventive dishes. I have enjoyed many a good meal here and recommend you try the langoustines tempura and escalopes of duck foie gras with a sweet sour sauce. A good fish dish is roasted turbot. Desserts, many with chocolate, are a speciality, among them a superb chocolate souffle.
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AMPHYCLES |
78 avenue des Ternes 75017; tel.: 0140 68 0101; fax: 01 40 68 9188
This restaurant deserves to be better known. It is a calm, relaxed place where chef Philippe Groult, who worked for ten years side-by-side with the famous Joel Robuchon, creates many attractive dishes such as omble chevalier du lac and duckling a la broche and coriandre. For dessert try caramelised pineapple or a pyramid of bitter chocolate with bananas flambee and cherries. I have decided to award Philippe Groult two stars and will follow him closely over the next year.
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LES AMBASSADEURS |
Hotel Crillon, 10 place Concorde, 75008;
tel.: 01 44 71 1500; fax: 01 44 71 1502
History and style combine in the perfect location I Les Ambassadeurs, a former ballroom, is a very beautiful restaurant in the historic 18th century Hotel Crillon. The Taittinger Champagne family are the owners and maintain impeccable standards. The restaurant's interior, in marble, with many chandeliers and mirrors makes every meal dramatic. Chef Dominic Bouchet offers a menu to match the surroundings. We could for example start with scallops carpaccio with a medley of fruits and black truffles and then move on to sea bass with aromatic herbs and shellfish in a wine broth. An unusual meat course would be saddle of rabbit with rosemary jus and fricassee of wild mushrooms. Of the many desserts I will mention just chocolate millefeuille with caramelised apples. The service is of course impeccable. There is a reasonably priced lunch menu to offset the inevitably high a la carte prices.
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ALAIN DUCASSE |
Hotel Plaza Athenee, 25 avenue Montaigne, 75008;
tel.: 01 53 67 6665; fax: 01 53 67 6666
Alain Ducasse, one of the most talked about chefs in France, is in the news again. Last year he was the only chef with two three star restaurants in the Michelin Guide but suddenly a star has gone in Monte Carlo. He may be spreading his talents too thin with more than half a dozen restaurants around the world. In Paris, however, he has successfully moved his establishment to the Hotel Plaza Athenee. The transfer has gone well partly thanks to the many staff members who have come along, such as chef du cuisine Jean Francois Piege and sommelier Gerard Margeon. Plaza Athenee has recently been restored at vast expense and the elegance of this magnificent hotel is well matched by Ducasse`s luxury restaurant. Everything on the menu is interesting but let me mention crayfish en gratin, soup of morel mushrooms, asparagus and chicken breast with Albufera sauce. The wine list is of course magnificent.
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