VERMEER

Prins Henrikkade, 59; tel.: 020 556 4885; fax: 020 556 4858 Restaurant Vermeer occupies three restored 17th century canal houses with antiques and wooden panelling. Classical cooking with some Italian influence.

LA RIVE

Hotel Amstel, Prof. Tulpplein, 1; tel.: 020 622 6060; fax: 020 622 5808 The Amstel ranks as one of the most luxurious hotels in the Netherlands and its many facilities and quiet location right on the river Amstel makesit very desirable. The biggest attraction, however, may be the superb  restaurant, La Rive, attractively situated on the river level with a fine view. Recently appointed chef Edwin Kats has kept the standard high and the food may be just about the best in Amsterdam. The menu offers many interesting dishes and I have selected the following for my readers to consider: sea bream prepared in a salt crust with a compote of artichoke, tomato, sweet pepper, shallots and balsamic vinegar, Waterlant's loin of veal prepared with cloves and bay leaf, celery and marrow or roast Barbary duck caramelised with spices.

EXCELSIOR

Hotel Europe, Nieuwe Doelenstraat 2-8; tel.: 020 531 1705; fax: 020 531 1778 This hotel is right on the intersection of two canals and there is a fine view over the water and the passing boats from both the restaurant and most rooms. This is where I normally stay when visiting Amsterdam, partly because of its location right in the centre, and partly because of the high standard of Restaurant Excelsior. The dining room has chandeliers, tall candelabras and piano music, and the tables are well spaced. The cooking is French with several Fixed price menus. The wine cellar is one of the best with no less than 30,000 bottles. There is also an informal brassserie, Le Relais, with lower prices and no dress code.

CHRISTOPHE

Leliegracht, 46; tel.: 020 625 0807; fax: 020 638 9132 Jean-Christophe Royer, chef/patron, cooked in Paris and New York before opening his own restaurant in Amsterdam in 1987. It quickly became a success and now ranks as one of the best eating places in town. The split-level dining room is unusual and looks out over a small canal. No doubt influenced by his French-Algerian background, Jean-Christophe specializes in French food with a Mediterranean accent. One interesting starting dish is a tartare of salmon, smoked salmon and salmon caviar.

CAFE ROUX

Grand Hotel, O.Z.Voorburgwal, 197; tel.: 020 555 3560; fax: 020 555 3222 The resident chef is Andrew Gaskell. The Cafe Roux is part of the Grand Hotel which was created ten years ago by converting the old town hall into a luxury hotel. Part of this attractive building is from the 16th century but most of it is modern. It features a mural by a famous artist, Karel Appel, stained glass windows and Gobelin tapestries. Cafe Roux has an informal brasserie atmosphere with oak floors and an art deco interior design. It overlooks a picturesque canal. The cuisine is French and features some of Albert's special dishes such as souffle Suisesse, one of my absolute favourites (a floating cheese souffle in a creamy Gruyere sauce). Another starter is a crispy pastry galette with grilled vegetables, marinated goats cheese and a black olive dressing. A main course to mention is poached fillets of sole with sauce Nantua.

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