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ZALACAIN

Alvarez de Baena, 4; tel.: 91 561 4840; fax: 91 561 4732

Zalacain could be an exclusive villa in a quiet residential area but it is a famous restaurant with a great reputation. On my visits to Madrid I make sure I have at least one meal at this luxurious place with its deep apricot colour scheme, large tables, comfortable seating and attentive service. Chef Benjamin Urdiain offers a part Basque, part haute cuisine menu with dishes of great interest. Try oysters in port wine, langoustines with artichoke, turbot with cepes and pigs' trotters stuffed with lamb. Excellent wine list.
 

PRINCIPE DE VIANA

Manuel de Falla, 5; tel.: 91 457 1549; fax: 91 457 5283

Jesus Oyarbide and his son Javier who run this First class restaurant specialise in traditional Basque and Navarra cooking (Navarra is the province adjoining the Basque country and the Pyranees). Oyarbide was the first restaurateur to introduce this type of cuisine in Madrid. The service is mostly by waitresses dressed in traditional apron dresses and ruffled collars. As always in Spain, fish courses tend to dominate the menu and here are a couple of good choices: salt cod with garlic and monkfish with a wine and olive emulsion. The wine cellar is very good with Spanish Rioja wines being a particular strength.
 

JOCKEY

Amador de los Rios, 6; tel.: 91 319 2435; fax: 91 319 2435

The gastronomic standard of Madrid's leading restaurants is very high and Jockey is very much a part of this group. Located in a quiet residential area, this is a classic restaurant much appreciated and frequented by leading business people in Madrid. It opened some 56 years ago and was restored and updated a few years ago. It has a special clublike atmosphere with equestrian paintings and bronzes, mahogany walls and racing-green banquettes.
 

HORCHER

Alfonso, XII-6; tel.: 91 522 0731; fax: 91 523 3490

The third generation of the Horcher family with its Germanic roots are now in charge. The restaurant is situated in a luxurious mansion on the edge of the Retiro Park and keeps up a high standard of both food and service. The cooking is in the hands of Gustavo «Moppy» Horcher and can best be characterised as central European haute cuisine.
 

CASA LUCIO

Cava Baja, 35; tel.: 91 365 3252; fax: 91 366 4866

Casa Lucio is an excellent place to go to if you wish to eat typical Castillian cuisine, prepared by chef Aurelio Calderon. It is located near the Plaza Mayor, the busy central area of Madrid. Patron Lucio has managed to make this a very «in» restaurant and it is said that King Juan Carlos likes to eat here. The most favoured tables are on the ground floor near the front bar but not the upstairs area. Castillian dishes are rather robust such as tripe Madrid style with a rich tomato sauce with garlic.
 

LA BROCHE

Miguel Angel, 29-31; tel. & fax: 91 399 3778

Sergi Ariola, 31, is the young, much talked about star chef of this restaurant. His former teacher and his idol is Ferran Adria of El Bulli who is the most famous chef in Spain today (see separate entry). Sergi is being mentioned as the next Adria. We will follow him in years to come. Today La Broche will delight you, with some inspired dishes such as sea bass with onions soaked in curry sauce, duck liver pie with olive oil or a simple dish, sardines marinated with herring eggs and vegetables on tomato flavoured bread. Guests are welcomed by Sara Ford, known as Sefiora Ariola. If you are lucky you might get a table in the kitchen, reserved for special guests.
 

EL BODEGON

Pinar, 15; tel.: 91 562 31 37; fax: 91 562 9725

If you are looking for classic Basque cuisine with traditional decor this is the place for you. Chefs Hilario Arbelaitz and Jose Machado prepare high quality regional dishes — try sea-bass with carrot juice and shallot oil. A selection from the excellent dessert menu is caramelised pineapple with a scoop of warm chocolate. The wine cellar is superb with a vast selection of Spanish wines. El Bodegon has the feel of a gentleman's club — lots of oak panelling and cigar smoke!
 

EL ASADOR DE ARANDA

Luis Montono 150; tel.: 1034 954 57 8141

The restaurant is in a palace constructed in Castilian style, near to modern sight of Madrid — two high inclined towers of the Kuwaiti Investment Organization.
 

EL AMPARO

Puigcerda, 8; tel.: 91 431 6456; fax: 91 575 5491

The setting is very attractive; dining on three floors with a glass roof overlooking an open atrium. Try to sit as high up as possible. The cooking is from the Basque region under the guidance of famous chef Martin Berasategui. The m-house chef is young Ignacio Perez Lecea. The restaurant is managed by Senora Carmen Guasp who welcomes and looks after the guests. I have enjoyed several meals here and would like to recommend dishes such as sea bass with clams, lobster with tuna mousse and oven-baked stuffed crab. Sommelier Luis Miguel will give you good advice on what wines to choose. This is definitely one of the best restaurants in Madrid, worth its two stars.


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